Amazing Artemisias

WHO IS ARTEMIS? Amazonian moon goddess. Goddess of the hunt. Goddess of the wild things. Goddess of the midwife. Goddess of the herbalist. Mother of all Creatures. Leader of the sacred bitches. Great she-bear. Diana. Selene. Ever Virgin; owned by no man. We will visit her sacred wood on a shamanic journey. Who knows what will happen then. 

HOW DO ARTEMISIAS GROW IN YOUR GARDEN?Most Artemisias are perennials and grow best from cuttings, not seeds. Sweet Annie is the exception, being a self-seeding annual. Although you can buy tarragon seeds, you can't grow   true tarragon from them. Wormwood and southernwood and tarragon (the last not winter-hardy in many places) are woody perennials which regreen each year on last year's new wood; I prune only dead wood from them. Cronewort is an invasive perennial that creeps underground; it dies back to the ground each year and can be heavily harvested (clear cuts are ok) without damage to its further prolific productivity. 

Most Artemisias require little care. Lack of soil nutrients and lack of water do not faze them. Many are native to deserts, and know how to thrive in hot dry weather. Except for tarragon, all can overwinter without fuss.

Flowers are usually small and green, in other words, nearly invisible. 

WHAT DO ARTEMISIAS CONTAIN? bitter principals: wormwood coumarins: cronewort, tarragon essential oils (complex, variety specific, with hundreds of components per plant): cronewort (high in camphor, thujone), tarragon, wormwood (high in camphor, thujone) flavonoids: cronewort, tarragon glycosides: cronewort, tarragon hormones: cronewort (sitosterol, stigmasterol) sesquiterpene lactones: cronewort

HOW ARE ARTEMISIAS USED?

Artemisias, with their grey-green or white-green foliage bring beauty to the garden throughout the growing season. They also make long-lasting, aromatic and beautiful indoor decorations: bouquets, wreaths, swags. They are popular strewing herbs, too. 

Those which are high in essential oils are thereby antibacterial, antifungal, and antimicrobial. They also improve digestion and appetite if taken in small doses. 

Any Artemisia growing beside the door - or painted on it - was, in days of old, the sign of the midwife, the herbalist. Magical and folkloric uses are numerous.

"Mugwort possesses both natural and supernatural qualities. [It] excels as a woman's herb, easing the pain of labor, menstrual cramps, and effectively treating various uterine complaints."                                                         Gai Stern (1986)Cronewort/mugwort = smudge, dream pillow, moxa, birthing steam, vinegar of roots and young leaves, salad green when young, mugwort noodles, mugwort mochi. American colonists used the sundried leaves as a tea substitute. Formerly a popular beer flavoring (hence the name mugwort). Controls worms in goats. Urinary tonic. Uterine tonic. Digestive tonic. Nerve tonic.  Circulatory tonic. Cronewort eases pain and fever, comforts grief and depression, eases irritability and burdened joints, brings peace and sleep, and reassures the nerves. 

Moxa demonstration and discussion.

"That torturous, barbaric practice, the use of the moxa, is closely related to this plant." Millspaugh (1892)Wormwood = tincture, oil. Ingredient in absinth. Stimulates mid-brain activity and increases creativity, but repeated use disturbs the central nervous system. Prevents giardia, dysentery, amoebas. Cholagogic, digestive, appetite-stimulant, liver-stimulant, wound healer. Caution: Use can lower seizure threshold; interacts adversely with seizure-reducing medications.Sweet Annie = capsules, in fairly large daily dose, to prevent malaria; source of antimalarial drugs. A strong tea, taken frequently, kills giardia and amoebas.Tarragon = vinegar, seasoning. Appetite stimulant according to Herbal PDR.Southernwood = dream pillow, sachet, charms. To see the beloved. 

SPECIESSome of the many Artemisia species that herbalists and gardeners use:

A. abrotanum (southernwood)

A. absinthium (wormwood)

A. afra (African wormwood)

A. annua (sweet Annie, qing hao)

A. camphorata (camphor-scented sothernwood)

A. drancuncula (tarragon, estragon, little dragon)

A. frigida (fringed sagebrush)

A. lactiflora (ghost plant)

A. ludoviciana (silver queen)

A. pontica (Roman wormwood) 

A. schmidtiana (silver mound)

A. stellerana (old woman, dusty miller)

A. tridentata (sagebrush; three-toothed sagebrush)

A. vulgaris (cronewort, mugwort)

Amusing Garden Laterns

Garden Planter is a small pot or container used for growing small plants or trees. Garden Planters are stunning outdoor accessories that takes care of your actual garden or outdoor space. Garden Planters provide solution to plant lovers who do not have enough garden space.  Garden Planters allow plantation anywhere in different styles shapes and sizes.   Square, Rectangular or circular garden planters are there to suit different space area and different plant types viz., small trees to medium plants.    Even hang-off garden planters are also available. With garden planters an artificial garden can be created even at the roof top. 

Selection of Garden planters is most important.  Quality material with nicely crafted garden planters must be selected as it did not require replacement at later point of time.  Garden Planters with good wooden material like teak, cedar, Redwood, synthetic material like polymer and granite or marble is durable and elegant.   Wooden and Granite Garden planers are natural and beautiful.  They withstand tuff weather conditions and monsoon seasons.  Garden Planters can be selected taking into account whether the container will survive mid-day sun, breezes and can hold moisture and should not dry out immediately.   Terracotta Planters dry out very fast while wood and metal garden planters retain water unless there is provision for water drain.  Fiberglass Planters are very light weight, mobile but not durable. 

Popular kind of outdoor planters is terracotta planter pottery.  These clay planters are natural in color and well suited to the greenery in the garden.  Terracotta garden planters can be painted, glazed or engraved designs. Pottery Planter designs can be arranged nicely like Linear (stripes, checks), Geometric shapes, Floral.  Ceramic Planters come out with beautiful colors, designs and textures.    Ceramic normally contains moisture and this will be useful for plants thrive on moisture.  Ceramic planters are light weight and can be hanged on wall. Hanging Planters also called suspended gardens adorn house décor.  Plants in hanging planters at ceilings, windows walls add beauty to the garden or living place.  Patio Planters act as a bridge between garden and home and is very decorative.  

Garden Planters are very important accessories for garden art.  Garden Planters also indoor and outdoor herb gardening.  Growing fresh herbs for day to day use in cooking is made possible by garden planters.  When it comes to making your own garden art, there are so many different possibilities as to what you can do that it can almost be overwhelming. That is why I am going to focus on just one type of garden art in this article: planters. Check out these fun and unique ideas for your garden pots and planters:  

Bonsai Garden can be created by using garden planters.  Bonsai trees are very popular and bonsai garden provides peace and relaxation over the years. Garden Planters should support the type of bonsai trees grown. 

When selecting the outdoor planters for your bonsai tree, you need to keep in mind the overall impact it is supposed to have, little to none. The outdoor planters are not what you are trying to show off. They are simply the vessels that are supporting the bonsai trees that you are raising. That means the outdoor planters you choose should not be showy or over the top. Instead they should be natural looking pieces that add to the overall effect of the tree in them.

American Horticulural Society-Award Winner

Past honorees have been pioneers in print, radio and television. Their names have graced campus buildings and public gardens. For a dairy farmer’s grandson from Maine, the news that he was to receive the Ameri-can Horticultural Society’s 2006 Horticultural Communication Award was the most humbling of his career.

“To be included among the past recipients of AHS awards is the highest honor of my professional life, and nothing I could ever have dreamed of receiving,” said Paul Tukey, who founded People, Places & Plants magazine in 1995, along with a television show of the same name in 2002. “It is something I share with an incredibly dedicated staff at People, Places & Plants and my friends and family, who have supported me through all the trials and tribulations of an running an independently-owned publishing company in this day and age. Honestly, to win this was stunning.”

Founded in 1922, the American Horticultural Society is one of the oldest gardening organizations in the nation. Its awards program, started in 1952, is considered to be the most prestigious in the field of horticulture.

“The American Horticultural Society recognizes American horticultural heroes in a wide variety of professions through the annual Great American Gardeners Awards,” said AHS President Katy Moss Warner. “These awards celebrate the best and brightest in our nation, from scientists who develop tough plants for our gardens, to public garden professionals who promote earth-friendly gardening practices, to journalists who popularize gardening throughout America. This year, Paul Tukey is receiving the AHS Horticultural Communication Award in recognition of the extraordinary work he has done to encourage gardening through his dynamic talks, his presence on HGTV, and his People, Places & Plants magazine.”

Tukey, who hosts a popular gardening show based on the magazine on HGTV at 7 a.m. each Sunday, is one of 12 members of the horticultural community who will be honored by the American Horticultural Society during its Great American Gardeners Awards ceremony and banquet on June 2. He is just the third Maine recipient of a lifetime achievement award since AHS began presenting the awards. University of Maine horticulturist Lewis Lipp (1972) and Currier McEwen (1995) were the others.

“At times like this there are many people I really hope are smiling down on us, and Currier is one of them,” said Tukey, who wrote numerous articles about the renowned iris hybridizer from South Harpswell, Maine, who passed away two years ago at age 101. “Another would be my grandfather, Henry VanDyne, who — I’m proud to remember — once won the award for dairyman of the year for New England at the Springfield Exposition. Spending my summers with him on his farm was what made me love the scents and physical activity of gardening.”

After graduating from the University of Maine and embarking on an award-winning, nine-year career as a sportswriter and newspaper editor, Tukey followed his love of the outdoors into landscaping and founded his own company, Home ’n’ Land, in the late 1980s. In honoring Tukey for his garden writing and his television work that began at NBC affiliate WCSH6 in Portland, Maine in 1996, the AHS cited his repeated commitment to supporting independent garden centers as well as promoting environmentally friendly gardening — including an upcoming book on organic lawns.

“Now more than ever I think it’s important to retain an independent voice and be an advocate for the environment and family business,” Tukey said. “This award, in great measure, is a validation of the efforts we’ve made. We really try to make a difference in people’s lives.”

Tukey also reiterated his thanks to many people who have made a difference in his own life and professional career.

“This really should be an award for everyone involved with People, Places & Plants because, even though I had the idea, the company belongs to our staff and everyone in horticulture in the Northeast,” he said. “I could fill an entire magazine thanking everyone who has helped, including Susan Gilman and Rick Churchill, who have been here since the beginning, and especially Mark Sellew, who was at our side for five extraordinary and evolutionary years. And, of course, ‘The Man in the Red Suspenders’ and his amazing wife — Roger and Elisabeth Swain. If I should get an award for anything, it would be my ability to surround myself with great people.” — Allen Lessels

Americas Ancient Historical Hickory Trees

In 1792, William Bartram reported in his book, Travels, the discovery of a native shagbark hickory nut that he called ‘Juglans exaltata.’ Today, shagbark hickory is called ‘Carya ovata.’ Bartram reported that this shagbark hickory grove was cultivated in groves by the Indians west of Augusta, Ga.

Bartram documented that he saw 100 bushels of shagbark hickory nuts that were stored at just a single Indian family home. The nuts were pounded into a mash, and then boiled in water, where a white, oily liquid separated called ‘hickory milk.’ The liquid was described to be as sweet and rich as a fresh cream and was an active ingredient used by the Indians in cooking corn bread and hominy grits.

There remains some question whether or not the Indians near Augusta on the Altamaha River hickory groves as described by Bartram were actually planted as orchard trees or just harvested at a naturally located site. Many such productive groves occur along tidal creeks in Coastal Georgia, a few are left intact by land developers for the recreational value of the trees and the food value of the nuts that are gathered at one such Episcopal camp near Brunswick, Ga. along a tidal basin aquifer ‘Honeycreek,’ a tributary of the Satilla River.

The hickory cream that was recovered by the Indians for cooking purposes was also described by Indians from the Algonquian tribe in Virginia who called this cream “pawcohiccora,” thus the word ‘hickory’ was adapted, modified, and abbreviated by the English colonists.

The shelled nuts of hickory are greatly sought after and appreciated for the unique flavor, not only by birds and animals, but by cooks and gourmet nut fanciers as well. The shagbark hickory nut, when added to chocolate fudge, leaves a pleasurable, indelible memory to all who are lucky enough to have experienced this delicious encounter.

A group of entrepreneurs out West offer shagbark syrup made from a top secret recipe that is made from a white inner bark extract of the juice obtained in the spring from shagbark hickory trees. The extract is obtained by pressure cooking and straining the juices from the pulverized and shredded bark. The demand is so great for this bottled hickory flavoring, that it has never satisfied the market to chefs throughout the United States. Julia Child reports that one of her favorite gourmet preparations includes mixing the bark extract with bourbon as a marinade for ribs.

Every backyard chef with a grill appreciates the fine flavoring that hickory tree wood smoke transfers into meat, fish, and many other food items. Early colonists used hickory tree wood smoke to flavor, cure, and preserve meats in the famous smokehouses of Virginia.

In the natural state of hardwood forests, hickory trees have hybridized easily and readily within species to produce numerous variations and combinations of characteristics that possess the traditional vigor displayed in scientific intercrosses of species by academic professionals.

The difficulties that have delayed commercial orchard development basically lies in the extreme difficulty in successfully grafting 130 cultivar selections for nursery distributors.

Some hickory nuts have smooth, thin shells that can be easily cracked by squeezing two together in the hand, but other hickory nut shells are so thick and hard that they must be cracked by several vigorous hits from a heavy hammer.

Since hickory nuts are difficult to shell out into large pieces, it is beneficial to soak the nuts in water overnight before cracking. The shelled nuts then should be dried and placed in a cool, dark location until they are to be used in recipes.

Even though some cultivars can produce kernels up to 47% by weight, most nuts only shell out about 30% kernel. There is a great variability in hickory flavor from one cultivar to the next, however, they all have a high unsaturated fat content with strong medical antioxidant properties that transmits that characteristic spicy, sweet, buttery taste from the kernels.

A mature shagbark hickory tree is unmistakable in its shaggy, unkempt trunk appearance and its bright green, shiny leaves constantly moving in the breeze at the globular treetop. Young trees have a shiny, smooth bark that only begin to shred hair-like at an age of about 25 years.

Shagbark hickory trees are easy to transplant until about 4-5 feet tall, when a long taproot begins to anchor the tree to the ground with very few lateral roots. Because of these sturdy, deep growing taproots, and dense wood, the trees are among the best lawn specimens to plant in hurricane locations, since they appear invulnerable to wind damage with very straight trunks.

Several observations have been made on natural state hybridization between shagbark hickory ‘Carya ovata,’ and pecan trees, ‘Carya illinoinensis.’ The resulting nuts seem to have flavor and nut characteristics somewhere in between the two species and are being planted by nut hobbyists and some have found a place within some commercial pecan orchards to insure pollination of this genetic marvel named, ‘Hican.’

The many uses of shagbark hickory trees include fuel, wood, and furniture products and as a supplement to charcoal cooking as a smoking agent for taste and preservation of meats. Because of the dense wood, hickory is used in tool handles such as hammers and axes, as well as chairs, ladders, golf clubs, baseball bats, and skis.

An Introduction to No-Dig Gardening

The idea of no-dig gardening was developed by an Australian named Esther Deans. It was originally both developed both as a labor saving idea, and a method to rejuvenate badly depleted soil in a vegetable garden.

The process involves starting with layers of newspaper, and by adding lucerne hay, straw and compost in succeeding layers, you can create a growing medium without resorting to heavy digging, and one that is rich in nutrients and which will simplify weeding and encourage your much desired plants to grow. The layers compost together, and greatly encourage earthworms. The gardens are maintained by adding manure, compost, etc., and should not be dug up, as this will undo the good work. I have used this approach to creating vegetable gardens, and it certainly does work.

The principle of not digging has sound foundations. Excessive cultivation of the soil, especially when very wet or very dry, will damage the structure of the soil, and lead to compaction. Such excessive cultivation can also discourage the earthworms, and they are the best free labor a gardener has.

Some followers of permaculture and organic gardening have translated no-dig into never-dig, which I believe is sadly mistaken. If you start with a base soil that is badly compacted, then your no-dig garden will initially work well, but you may find your garden does not continue to perform well. The fertile layer you have built up will encourage the earthworms, but we do know that the worms need to shelter from excessively hot, dry, cold or wet conditions. They have been found to seek shelter from extreme conditions by burrowing more deeply into the soil, sometime many feet down. If they cannot shelter in this way, it is my contention that they will die out or move out. 

My belief is that an initial cultivation of the soil before you apply the no-dig system will guarantee a better environment for the worms, and thus a better garden for growing your plants, over the longer term. 

By all means give the no-dig approach a try – you will be pleased with the result.

Arbors in English Tudor Gardens

Every Tudor garden contained one or more arbors. One type had a square-topped roof, while the other type was arched. Both were constructed of willows or osiers. Fragrant rosemary, jasmine, and roses of various sorts, especially the sweetbrier or eglantine, were also trained over the trellis, which often rested on a part of the wall. As was remarked by an old writer, "the herb gardeners erected and framed most gardens in a refreshing manner"

More solid constructions of brick or of stone were useful in winter as well as summer, as they were furnished with chimneys. Such a one, on a large scale, is still to be seen at Hampton Court, and is called the banqueting house. Another, which has now disappeared, was built for Elizabeth of York at Windsor.

Long covered walks formed another important feature in every garden. Sometimes they passed between lines of clipped trees bent to form an arch, like the hornbeam walk at Hatfield, or the one of witch elm, called Queen Mary's, at Hampton Court. At other times the arches were constructed of woodwork and covered with vines. One of the advantages of these walks was that under their shade it was possible to go from one part of the garden to another without being exposed to the sun. Beneath the arbors, and in other spots covered or uncovered, seats and tables were placed for reading and writing, and where refreshments might also be served. Most often these were arranged at the ends of the paths or around the fountain. 

Another feature developed at this period was the mount, a mound of earth usually covered with grass and serving as a lookout over the garden wall into the park. Often it was capped by an arbor or a simple seat. There was a very large mount at Hampton Court, constructed in 1533. It was built on a brick foundation covered with earth and planted with twelve hundred quicksets. On the summit was a spacious summer-house.

Antique Roses - Proving That Old is Good

"Old", is 'hip', 'with-it', 'cool'....'phat', even. And although these terms may not be so ''in'' - depending on your generation --, ''heritage'', ''antique'' or simply trusted, beloved and admired things of the past are again "in vogue". 

Clothes that mimic those we relinquished to the rag bag (and wouldn't be caught dead in) have become the rage, and wind-storm-look hairdos and retro-look furniture have become as coveted as true antique heirlooms are by avid collectors. 

Old-time vegetables and flowers are also making a comeback in many a garden, and among these are roses. "Antique/Old Garden/ Heritage" roses, --showing that "heritage" means something. Old is good. 

Rose enthusiasts everywhere are turning again to antique roses for their gardens, for good reasons. The many advantages of these old garden roses are being rediscovered. Their general ease of care, as compared to some of their more sensitive, more "modern" cousins, is one of their prized winning attributes. Not all heritage varieties are immune to the dastardly black spot disease, but most suffer little from its effects, and this eliminates the regular spray programs required by more delicate cousins. Other diseases and insects aren't usually major problems with this group...assuming you have provided them with proper nurture. 

Old Garden roses are known for their gloriously abundant perfumes, and they need less major pruning. As more hardy shrubs or climbers, they lend themselves to many landscape uses, allowing them to socialize and adorn our yards with vertical bloom and graceful arches in various areas, as opposed to confinement to one rose bed or area. 

Some of these 'old' standbys can tolerate light shade as well. They can demand less water and fertilizer than do the "newer" hybrid teas, for instance. And they can be rooted fairly easily for propagation, offering a pat to the pocket book as well. 

So why, with all these wonderful habits, did they pass into the shadows? As with fads in any area of consumerism, the "new " versions capture the tide. With introduction of the Hybrid Tea, the excitement of a totally "new" look in roses, along with much larger blooms, and a nearly constant blooming ability lasting through the growing season, caused quite the stir. New colors were subsequently introduced as well, bringing delight and variety to the mostly pastel range of the Antiques. 

The exquisite, high-pointed, high-center bloom of the Hybrid Tea came to be the darling of the twentieth century, and the most recognized form of rose yet today. The trade off for all this beauty, charm, and grace was a loss of scent and the need for more maintenance. Like ladies of high fashion, many newer versions require more "polish" to keep them happy, they may have some of the robust genes of their parentage diluted, and demand more attention to maintain their most lovely qualities. 

I enjoy and relish the personalities and various attributes of adornment of all my roses. The modern versions and the old garden. I can't, however, imagine my yardscape without the perky, petite, sprays of pink blooms of my trusty fairy roses, that have staunchly held up to mounds of snow, provided cover to many a mother rabbit and babies, and staunchly faced some unhappy heat of summer, yet keep coming back for more to spread and adorn the drive. Nor can I imagine trading my Zepherine Drouhin, for a modern climber. This old garden rose lavishly drapes my walkway arbor with gorgeous, large, deep pink blooms and provides an exquisite perfume that literally makes my heart sing. Neighbors may wonder as I linger for minutes on end with my nose shoved between the lattice, inhaling blossom after blossom of heady, intoxicating perfume...with no worries about thorns! This wonderful Bourbon Rose is thornless! 

So, the next time one of your progeny or loved ones implies that you are "out of it, old fashioned, set in your ways, stuck in a rut", --or whatever the phrase of the day may be...tell them they're" trippin'...chill out". 

And then tell them this story about antique roses. Old is good. And show them your roses. But hand them one with a thorn... 

Anthony Fisher Pixies

Anthony Fisher Pixies are unique and hand crafted. Based out of Cornwall these pieces have a creative unique look. Not your everyday storybook pixie, Anthony Fisher pixies have a similarity to the artistry of the traditional European fairytales. 

These pixies are collectors’ items with a wide variety to choose from. Each is just as unique as the name given to them. Take for example “Billy Winks Money Box” a pixie figurine that is sleeping in his log home. Each pixie has a story that goes along with them. For example Billy’s story is that he likes to steal little things from humans just to cause trouble, that by the way is what pixies like to do best. Unfortunately, Billy Winks is a lazy pixie and you can usually find him sleeping.

These figurines are perfect for adult or child alike. They can be placed in a child’s room or through out the home. They even make a wonderful addition to any garden. Since the many of the pieces have aspects of nature in them, Anthony Fisher Pixies are a perfect match for the average gardener. Pieces such as Sunflower Sam and anyone from his Naughty Sporting series are a good choice for the garden. Other functional pieces include birdbaths, plant holders and even a welcome to my garden piece.

There are other functional pieces for in the home or for use on the patio to entertain as well. These include a wine bottle holder, cooking utensil holder and bookends. All pieces are handmade and have the signature uniqueness only an Anthony Fisher Pixie can carry. 

When purchasing an Anthony Fisher Pixie be sure that is an officially licensed place that sells them and be sure to ask about a certificate of authenticity. As with all collectibles it is best to make sure that the piece has the certificate of authenticity with out this your collectible is nothing more than a statue. Also the certificate of authenticity proves that your hard earned money was spent on what you intended it to be spent on. 

All in all Anthony Fisher Pixies are the perfect choice to add a little fantasy to the mundane home.  They will add a feeling o warmth fun and fantasy to any location. Pieces are reasonably priced and a person on any budget can find a piece that suits them best. These pieces can be found on internet websites that deal in selling just his pieces or directly through the artist’s own website.

Are You Ready To Mow

To make sure your grass is a cut above your neighbor's, it's important not to let your riding mower and other power equipment get you hot under the collar because they're not ready to mow when you are.

That's why it's a good idea when you create your "to-do" list to have a check box that reads: Maintain Outdoor Power Equipment. This task is not only essential for the safety and performance of the equipment, but also helps keep your yard healthy and free of disease throughout the summer. 

Are You Feeling Handy?

You can do a lot of the basic maintenance on your outdoor lawn equipment yourself in just a couple hours. Some steps to follow include:

• Change and dispose of oil; replace filter

• Check and replace worn spark plugs

• Brush grass clippings away from cooling fans, air intake screens and under mower deck

• Inspect air filter

• Sharpen blade

Prefer Soil Rather Than Oil?

Use a "hassle-free" mobile service.

Not everyone likes or is able to perform their own maintenance. Similar to a doctor's house call, there are mobile services available to deliver the service center to your doorstep. For example, John Deere offers Ready To Mow™, whereby one of their factory-trained technicians comes to your home or work with a service center on wheels to perform a 12-point maintenance & inspection service on all outdoor power equipment. A few steps involved with this service include:

• Check battery voltage and continuity

• Clean engine

• Inspect belts for wear and adjust tension

• Check tire tread and pressure

• Test operation of brakes, carburetor, transmission and safety systems

• Change transmission fluid, engine coolant, oil and filters (certain models)

• Grease axle and mower spindles

• Sharpen blades, check balance and straightness to prevent vibration.

Don't let the grass grow under your feet before you perform some basic maintenance on your outdoor power equipment.

Ancient Figs Through History

The fig tree, ‘Ficus carica,’ possibly originated in Northern Asia according to archeological fossil records. Spanish missionaries brought it to the United States in 1520. Historical Sumerian tablets record the use and consumption of figs in 2500 BC.

In Greek mythology, the fig figures prominently as a gift of Demeter to Dionysus and as having received the blessing and sanctity of the Greek Gods. Plato documented that Greek athletes at Olympia were fed diets of figs to increase their running speed and overall strength. The figs contained up to 50% concentration of sugar which was virtually like feeding the athlete a candy bar.

The most famous Biblical reference to figs is that, in which Jesus cursed a fig tree for not producing any fruit for him as he passed by, a curse that killed the fig tree, Matt 21:18

The Jewish King, Hezekiah, was cured of a life-threatening plague by applying figs to the infected spot. 2 Kings 20 The Apostle, James, brother of Jesus, used the metaphor of the fig tree to describe the appropriate behavior that he expected to follow from Christian living. James 3:12

Fig leaves were used in the early church to hide the genitalia of nude, marble sculptures that adorned religious buildings. Fig trees were also used in ancient history as shade trees and to chop and use as quick start firewood.

Cooked figs were used as sweeteners in ancient times and this practice is still used in many third world countries in Asia Minor. The figs contain over 50% sugar. Hybrid figs contain many hollow, tiny seeds on the interior of the fruit, similar in taste as those found in blueberries and strawberries. A fig fruit has a round tiny opening at the base of the fig called an ‘eye.’ A tiny wasp flies into the interior of the fig and pollinates the tiny flowers lining the interior walls of the fig. These tiny seed are not generally digested by the stomach and offer a great laxative effect to the elderly sedentary citizens. American hybrid figs do not require or receive pollination to be transformed into edible fruit.

Fig trees in Europe can grow to a tremendous height of 100 feet, but the fruit is very difficult to harvest when the tree grows taller than 10 feet.

In harvesting the figs, it is important to pick the fruit from the tree, when it is completely mature--usually when it sags, droops, and changes color. If the figs are taken from the tree prematurely, the sweetness declines, but more importantly, if the figs are removed in the juvenile developing state, a white milky fluid exudes from the stem, which is transferred to a person’s hands and then eyes or mouth, the fluid is very irritating and should be washed away as quickly as possible.

One of the most famous figs in the United States is the “Black Mission” fig tree, which was named after the California, Franciscan mission that dates back to 1770, when it was planted there and cultivated on a commercial scale.

Perhaps the most famous product of figs is the fig newton that uses dried figs placed between curved, sweet wafers and distributed by Nabisco. In Europe, figs are gathered from commercial fig tree orchards where they are sized, graded, and packed to sell as fresh fruit at local markets. Figs are easily dried after harvesting from the trees, and various brands are popularly sold throughout the world, because of their extended shelf life in the United States, California is the largest producer of figs and most of them are marketed as dried figs. In the South figs are boiled in sugar liquid, sometimes adding strawberries and the resulting fig preserves are eaten during the fall and winter months as fig preserves on hot buttered biscuits. The trees grow into picturesque specimens in many landscapes. The trunks are often whitewashed when young in order to keep the sun from scalding the tender bark. The roots are vigorous growers and will grow far away from the canopy; however, trimming these roots does not damage the tree.

Fig trees grown in full sun have soft wood that break easily. The trees easily grow to 100 feet in Europe but usually less than 30 feet in the United States. Fertilizing fig trees on most soils is unnecessary and unwise, because nitrogen fertilizer tends to promote aggressive branch growth and will reduce the size of the crop. If too much nitrogen is applied, the fruit does not mature properly and the fruit has an off taste.

The first crop of figs that matures in the spring is called the “breba” crop and the next and tastiest crop matures in the fall. Figs are harvested from the trees from June till October, although some new cultivars will be ready for eating in April. The shelf life for freshly picked figs is short and fig generally last only about three days in refrigeration. A fig should not be picked from a tree, if it is over ripe or mushy, since it will begin souring from fermentation. At this point figs will lose their roundness and begin to collapse inward. When a fig is harvested from a tree, it should be soft to the touch and a very firm fig will not ripen properly, if it is picked at this immature stage.

The beautiful leaves of the fig tree are used to make an odd scented perfume with the aroma of wood or musk. The white, milky latex from the tree can be used as a meat tenderizer or in making cheese, if the latex is dried and powdered. Figs can be frozen whole or sliced in plastic bags or jars and expected to last satisfactorily for one year. Dried figs can be soaked in warm water to restore their shape and softness. Fruit of figs is high in iron, calcium, potassium, and fiber, and they are used as a diuretic and a laxative.

Figs contain protein digesting enzymes and can be used as a meat tenderizer and a taste enhancer. Dried figs are often used to substitute for recipes calling for dried apricots, dates, or prunes.

Fig trees are considered to be about as cold hardy as citrus; however, recent hybrid cultivars show that fig trees can survive temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit for limited periods of time, and if the tree freezes to the ground, the new shoots will sprout in the spring to rapidly renew the fig tree.

Artificial Flowers

Does the mere sight of fresh flowers make you sneeze? Are you like the many thousands of people that are allergic to the pollen in flowers? Do you like colourful pretty things around you? If so then read on……

Its quite sad to say, but there are thousands if not millions of people who can not enjoy the both the sight and scent of having a bunch of flowers around the home or office for fear that they will end up with a running nose and/or itchy eyes.

So what is the solution?  Yes you guessed – artificial flowers!. Not only do artificial flowers stop you sneezing but they can last forever if you look after them, and as such will save you more money in the long run so that you have more money in your pocket.

Today there are many homes, hotels, offices and restaurants that use the alternative to real flowers.  Artificial flowers if arranged correctly can give any environment a touch of elegance without the hassle of all the maintenance one would expect with real flowers and plants. (i.e. no watering, no having to change the water regularly, and as such no spillages).

Not only can you get artificial flowers, but also plants and trees. So if you want something a little large in order to decorate a room or office then this could be the answer for you.

So what are the advantages and disadvantages to Artificial flowers:

Advantages

No insects

No spillages to clean up

You have the option to change them around when you feel like it (thus making it look like you have a new arrangement)

Low maintenance (a quick wash now and again)

No more worries about who will look after them, if you go away on holiday

Cheaper than buying fresh flowers every week

Disadvantages

Of course everything has a downside, and although your flowers are artificial you will still need to keep then dust free and clean. So an occasional wash in soapy water should do the trick.

Where can you buy them?

There are lots of sources for buying artificial flowers nowadays, which include the following:

Florist, Garden Centre, Department stores, and even your local Supermarket. 

The can be purchased individually so that you can create your own arrangement that will suit your particular needs, or you can ask for them to be arranged for you.

So goodbye to those sneezes and itchy eyes – I feel we have a solution do you?

Ants-How to get rid of Ant problems

Living in a very dry area of Australia, I am actually very happy

to see all the ants coming inside the house as this means we are in for lots of rain. Trouble is, leave any trace of food around and it is covered in ants in seconds. The dog/cat dishes have to be emptied and cleaned straight after feeding and make sure the kids don’t leave the honey or cordial out! 

The problem lies when the ant problem becomes an 

infestation and they start taking over the house. Then we have to do something to fix the problem.

There is no point in just killing the ants you can see, this is actually only about 1% of the entire colony and when they do not come home to the nest more ants are automatically sent out.

The ideal situation is to find the main nest where the queens and all the other ants are and eradicate the entire colony with liquid bait.

You can try following the ant trail back to the main colony but this is near impossible as the trail may go behind skirting boards, along the inside of the walls and out somewhere at the other end of the house

The most effective treatment for homeowners is to bait the ants that are inside the home. The advantage of using Baits is the ants will take the poison back to the nest, the queen and the rest of the colony will feed on the bait and the entire colony will be destroyed.

Place the bait at different points along the trail the ants have been using. You should see heaps of ants scurrying to the bait. Do not kill them, just let them feed and you will see them leaving to go back to the nest, this is good!

The ant activity should subside within a few days. Keep topping up the bait until no more ants are seen.

Okay, you have put down bait but the ants are ignoring it! Would you believe that ants are fussy eaters and can alter their eating habits at different times of the year. It does not mean the bait is no good, just that the ants are looking for another type of food source, so try another bait such as liquid bait. 

The above baiting treatment will solve your indoor problem but if you have heaps of ants outside they will eventually come back indoor looking for food or water.

Therefore you should be treating both the home and yard for ants. 

Foundation - For effective ant control, you should spray the outside foundation of the home with an Insecticide repellant. A guide for spraying would be two foot up by 1 foot out, all the way around the foundation. Also treat the Windowsills, Door trims, Pipes, Cables and Pathways.

This should be done regularly, probably every quarter.

Yard - Treating the yard. The best solution for treating the yard is to use both Granules and liquid bait. Granules will last approximately 2-3 months. Liquid baits evaporate and need to be topped up regularly, especially if you live in a hot dry climate. Check frequently to make sure they have not dried up..

To recap, Gel Bait for Indoors, Sprays for the Foundation, Granules and Liquid Bait for outdoors.  This will solve all your ant problems if repeated regularly.

About tree seeds and bonsai seeds germination instructions

About Basic Care of Seeds

It is important to maintain the freshness of the seeds in order to facilitate proper germination. This is why we store all of our seeds in a refrigerator dedicated for this purpose. Therefore, in order to preserve their freshness until you are ready to begin the germination process, you can store the purchased seeds in the plastic bag we have provided. You can place the seeds in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator.

About Germination Instructions

Once you are ready to germinate your seeds, you have two (2) germination methods: natural germination or forced germination.

Natural germination: Sow seeds outside in autumn. Overwintering the seeds will accomplish all the necessary natural processes seeds require to germinate. Next spring, you should have sprouted seeds.

With forced germination, you are accomplishing the germination process artificially. Therefore, you will need to follow the steps listed below. Each seed is different. However most of them require three (3) steps. Some may require more while others may require less. These steps are: the scarification, the stratification and sowing.

1 - Scarification

Each seed has a shell around the live inner part. Some are harder than others. The goal of the scarification process is to soften the shell and allow water to reach the inner part of the seed. You will scarify the seeds by placing them in water, usually a glass or a bowl, for a period of twenty four (24) to forty eight (48) hours. The norm appears to be the use of warm water. Some seeds require boiling water while others require water at room temperature. Normally, the viable seeds will drown after the twenty four (24) hour period while others will float on top. If there are still seeds floating after the forty eight (48) hour period, you can discard them as they are empty seeds. Once completed, you are ready to begin the next step ( please note that some seeds require you to proceed directly to the third step).

2 - Cold Stratification

The next step is the cold stratification period. This step is where all the magic of nature occurs. In nature, most of the seeds fall from the trees in autumn. Consequently, seeds spend the winter period under colder temperature permitting the chemical in the seeds to develop and trigger the germination process once the ideal temperature is reached in spring. In the forced germination process, you attempt to recreate the winter period. In order to accomplish this process, use the following materials:

Plastic Ziplock bag

Paper towel

Water

Fold the paper towel in two and moisten with water. It should not be dripping wet but humid. Place your seeds on the humid paper towel and fold it over the seeds. Place the paper towel with the seeds in the ziplock plastic bag and store them in your refrigerator for a period varying from thirty (30) to one hundred and twenty (120) days. We suggest that you check your seeds every thirty (30) days in order to prevent rot and allow for proper air circulation. You will also check for germinated seeds. If this is the case, take the germinated seeds and proceed to the next step. If not, wait the required period and then proceed to the next step.

3 - Sowing

Sowing can be accomplished in the ground or in a pot. You can use any soil suitable for planting and growing. Make a small opening in the soil (approximately half (1/2) an inch deep), place the seed in the opening and cover it with a few millimetres of soil. Keep the soil moist.

Extra steps for certain species

If you choose to germinate your seeds via the forced germination process, you may be required to follow this extra step. This step takes place prior to the cold stratification. All you have to do is expose the seeds to ambient room temperature for thirty (30) to ninety (90) days. This is called heat stratification and is accomplished by leaving the seeds exposed in a plate on your desk. After you have achieved this step, you resume with cold stratification.

About The Bonzai Tree

Bonzai is a Japanese word, but its roots are Chinese and are derived from the word “punsa”. This word means “tree in a pot” The practice of growing trees in a pot was originally Chinese, but the practice of growing the Bonzai Tree was made into an art form by the Japanese when the concept was introduced to them about 5 centuries ago.

It was not until the early 1900s that the Bonzai Tree was introduced to the western world, but it soon became not only a popular hobby, but began to be considered a serious art form in horticulture by many people. Today, there are Bonzai Tree displays and shows, as well as stores dedicated to the Bonzai Tree.

It is a common misconception that the Bonzai Tree is small naturally, but this is not true. The Bonzai Tree comes from the same seed as its larger counterpart, but is grown in a specific way to ensure that it remains tiny.

It is vital for the beginner to know that the main element to growing a Bonzai is pruning this is the technique used that allows the tree to stay small. Without regular pruning, the Bonzai Tree will grow to its standard height and size.

The roots of a Bonzai Tree have to be pruned so that it will remain healthy. By pruning the roots, it produces a small thick ball or pack of root that permits it to be transplanted to an appropriate container. When pruning the roots, one-third of the roots are removed yearly so that new soil can be added and give space for new roots to develop.

The Bonzai Tree can grow to various heights. There are trees that are a few inches high and some grow much taller. There are no restrictions; it is only important that the Bonzai Tree is grown in a pot and attains the image of a full-grown tree as it would in nature. In the beginning, growing these miniature trees may seem difficult, but it won’t take long before you learn the art form of the Bonzai Tree and find that you simply can’t get enough of these unique plants.

Bringing the exquisiteness of a Japanese garden into your home with the Bonzai Tree is a great way to add beauty and elegance to your surroundings. If you are looking for a new type of indoor plant, or simply a new hobby, consider the Bonzai Tree.

Add Style to Your Pergola

Pergolas are a shady, garden structure whose beginnings date back to ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, and were common features in early Renaissance gardens throughout Europe. Their primary purpose was to provide shade on walkways, terraces, or pools. The earlier versions were often constructed from stone pillars with wooden cross-beams with a lattice roof. It was common to see ivy, grapevines, or other climbing plants winding around the wood, and filling the open spaces between the lattice. Today they are often constructed from pressure-treated wood or cedar. The many varieties of maintenance-free lumber products are also widely used. They give the look of wood, but never need painting, resist rot, peeling, and fading, and are available in a variety of colors. 

A pergola makes a striking accent to any landscaping theme; not only are they eye-catching, but functional as well. Depending on their size, pergolas often become an extension of the main home, and may be used for entertaining, dining, or as a getaway or quiet oasis for reading or enjoying morning coffee.

Ideas for Pergolas:

1. The most common version is a simple post construction with wood cross-pieces or lattice for the roof, and used to cover a deck or patio. It can be painted or stained, and accented with lighting, plants, and other accessories.

2. Install your pergola along the entire length of the house, similar to an awning. It can extend out farther at different points to create interest and seating areas underneath.

3. Use it to cover a hot tub.

4. Place in a random area of the yard to create a shady spot to escape from the afternoon sun. Add a nice little bench, and plant climbing roses or other scented vines nearby. Cover it with tin or shingles, to create extra coverage. 

5. Create road appeal by placing your pergola over a front porch in place of a standard roof. Paint or stain it the same color as your shutters or house trim. It won't entirely keep out the rain, but it will provide a certain amount of shelter, and create an impressive entrance. 

6. Instead of the standard lattice look on the roof, use strips of bamboo placed side by side. It creates additional shade and gives the structure a twig furniture look.

7. Your pergola is the perfect place let those showy vines grow wild; creating a thick natural canopy. Vines that work well include Hops, Wisteria, Jade, Grapes, Morning Glory, Cypress, and many varieties of climbing roses. It's also a great place to grow vegetables such as peas or Scarlett Runner Beans.

8. Give your pergola some style by adding architectural accents such as a curved top, cylindrical wooden column supports, or design a top that flows with the roof lines of your house. 

9. Dress up the open sides with outdoor fabric curtains, bamboo shades, or a manicured Boxwood hedge. 

10. Use your pergola to create a garden filled with your favorite shade-loving plants. You may want to try Hostas, Bleeding Hearts, Yellow Corydalis, Bigroot Geranium, Monkshood or Lungwort.

11. Give your pergola a rustic look by using rough logs and unstained beams. Weave willow or alder twigs in the roof and display your twig furniture below. 

12. A pergola is the perfect place for that hanging swing, chair or hammock. Add a small table, a cool drink, a good book, and you've got the perfect recipe for a lazy afternoon.

All About Gardening

Gardening is perhaps one of the best hobbies that a more laborious nature lover can take up. The reason why I choose to call this hobby laborious is because it surely does involve a good deal of physical activity. This hobby is not meant for those nature lovers who simply want to bask in the natural beauty that already exists. Rather it is an ideal pass time for those who want to make their own contribution to the nature.

In order to be successful in gardening one must have the following qualities: -

1.) Besides having a love for gardening you should also have the will and determination to pursue your hobby.

2.) You must be physically fit and agile. Laziness and gardening are anonymous to each other.

3.) Learn to exchange your ideas and information with like-minded people who can show an equal passion for gardening.

4.) Try laying your hands on almost any books, magazines or articles that can enhance your knowledge on gardening.

5.) Be prepared to invest a small amount of your earnings in purchasing the “Can’t do without”, gardening tools.

The world of gardening is wide and it has immense possibilities for those who want to explore it with the right zeal and enthusiasm. You can choose from indoor gardening, outdoor gardening, landscaping, cultivating exotic herbs, growing bonsais and thus the list is endless. However it is important to do a fair amount of research work before delving into any of the above fields. You should master up the art of choosing the right plants and also learn the techniques favorable for their productivity and growth.

Growing plants is not enough. Deciding where the plants should grow is also an important aspect of gardening. Nothing can be more distasteful than a garden which has color clashing flowers growing all around in a haphazardly manner. So be careful about allocating the plants their respective locations. Arrange the assortments of flowers in accordance with their heights, textures and colors so that they complement each other without diminishing the beauty of your garden.

Keep aside one day from the entire week to be your gardening day. Generally week -ends would be a good choice. On this day, equip your self with all the essential gardening tools and accessories and get down to your work. If you have children or friends who are equally interested in gardening call for their assistance. The more the merrier!

Once you are done for the day clean your tools well and store them in their right place. Be sure to maintain your gardening tools because well maintained tools can give you years of good performance. After all tools aren’t something that you can afford to buy every week.

Whether you are an efficient gardener or not can be best proved by your garden itself. So stop twiddling your thumbs and put your green fingers to use. As far as gardening is concerned, if you have really put in hard work your efforts will never go futile.

Add Some Magic With Garden Lighting

Anyone who knows me well knows that there is no place I would rather be at the end of a long day than out in my garden enjoying a cup of tea. In the cool fall and spring months, I prefer a cup of hot peppermint tea in my garden, and in the heat of summer I apt for a cup of iced lemon tea. There is something magical about being in my backyard garden that I just cannot get enough of. I have read more books, journaled more pages, and shared more great conversations with my family in our garden than almost anywhere else. The atmosphere of my garden was recently made even more magical when we strung garden lighting throughout the entire thing.

I have no idea why I hadn't thought of using great garden lighting before, but I was definitely open to the idea when my artistically driven teenage daughter suggested it as we sat on our back porch one night with tea cups. She thought that garden lighting might do something special for the mood of the garden and that it might make us want to spend even more time there.

Before I knew it we had sat our tea cups down and were headed to a local gardening store to see what kinds of garden lighting we could find. We were amazed when we took time to look through the store at how many garden lighting options we had. We choose a few strings of tiny Chinese laterns that we in bright teal and olive colors. We both loved them and knew that they would be the perfect garden lighting for our needs.

We rushed home and decided not to wait until morning to put the garden lighting up. Instead, we went immediately to our backyard garden and began stringing the lights from tree to tree to tree. After checking to see that all of the bulbs worked, we decided not to let ourselves turn the garden lighting on until we had it all up and hanging in place. I'm so glad we waited because when we finally turned on our new garden lighting it was amazing. The small and colorful Chinese laterns did a lot for the look and feel of our garden. The garden lighting only made it more inviting than it was before.

We gathered the rest of our family and brought them outside to see our work. They enjoyed the garden lighting as much as we did and within minutes we were making popcorn and had plans to enjoy the backyard garden together that evening. I love the way my garden lighting looks, but even more than that I love the way our garden has become a gathering place for the people I love most.

Adding Beauty To Your Garden With An Arbor

Garden arbors are set up as shaded places in home gardens or public parks where one can relax and rest. These open frameworks are typically made of latticework or rustic work, functioning also as a trellis for climbing or creeping plants. Arbors can also be constructed for decks or patios. Today's garden arbors were not the first attempt to enhance the beauty of gardens. In the 400s B.C. and A.D. 400's, elaborate courtyards were a hallmark of many Roman homes. Landscape architecture was also given a premium in Japanese gardens (A.D. 500's) and Persian gardens (A.D.200's-600's). Beauty was also a priority for civic plazas and hillside estates for Italians in the 1400's-1500's. City gardens and majestic palaces were the highlight of France during the 1600's and 1700's, while country estates with a natural look were the main theme followed by English designers in the 1800's.

1. Landscape Architecture

For a good number of these early country estates and gardens, designers were known as landscape gardeners. An American - Frederick Law Olmsted - was the first to use 'landscape architect'. He indicated this title when he approved design plans for Manhattan's Central Park in New York City with Calvert Vaux as his partner in the 1850's. Landsape architecture is not limited to major projects. Some homeowners tap the services of professionals to add beauty to their gardens. However, others now feel confident in do-it-yourself projects as a cost-effective alternative to make their gardens beautiful.

2. Use Quality Materials

Creating a small garden arbor is an easy task, with costs becoming significantly less if the homeowner is patient enough to shop around and compare prices, particularly for pressure-treated lumber. Other items that may vary slightly across discount stores in price terms are deck screws, scrap lumber, crushed stone or gravel, washers, bolts and nuts. The same principles apply to building larger arbors, although some ideas and items would tend to increase in scale. As an example, using two posts for a small arbor may mean using four posts for a large one, as a bigger arbor would need greater support for strength and stability, and also to enhance alignment.

3. Designing a Garden Arbor: Some Do-It-Yourself Fundamentals

- To stabilize the arbor, the homeowner should have the main posts of the structure sunk into concrete poured into holes below the garden's ground level.

- The carpenter's level is used to determine if the posts stand at equal heights. The tool is also used to establish plumbness, or if the posts are vertically 'level.'

- Wooden crosspieces in varying measurements can be attached perpendicular to the posts for further support.

- Since some rejects still make their way to lumber stores, one should be patient enough to sort through many boards until a good quality board is found.

- Buyers should remember that conventional measurements are not exact: a 4 by 4 may actually measure 3.5 by 3.5, while 2 by 4 may measure 1.5 by 3.5.

- The same consideration for post height must also be given, as part of the arbor posts will be underground. Galvanized post anchors is one option homeowners have if they intends to make use of the post's full height - or have all posts above ground level - for their garden.

4. Tools For Do-It-Yourself Projects

These will actually cost a lot more if one does not have the necessary tools at home for building garden arbors. 

- Circular saw or handsaw

- Stepladder

- Wheelbarrow

- Hammer

- Wrench

- Spade bit

- Garden hose

- Carpenter's level

- Shovel

- Drill

- File

- Wood chisel

5. Building Tips

- Arbor boards can already be pre-drilled and pre-cut as a time-saving step.

- The wooden crosspieces can be designed at the ends. Patterns can be drawn using a pencil and later cut using a jigsaw.

Algae vs. Lichens In The Garden

What is your opinion on algae and lichens within the garden? Are you trying to discourage them or are you one of the select few who promote their growth. Let me introduce you to these algae and lichens, so you can make an informed decision.

Algae in glasshouses and polytunnels

Algae are the much-maligned green slimes found on ponds and as a greenish scum on paths and drives. You may be surprised to know algae is actually a garden plant, albeit a stem-less and non-flowering specimen. Over winter, disgusting greyish-green algae often builds up on the inside glass of our garden sheds, glasshouses and polytunnels. The solution is to trim back any surrounding planting to allow as much light as possible to enter. Also try to leave the doors and windows open for a few hours each week to prevent the build up of stagnant air. If some of the slightly powdery scum still builds up, you can wipe it off glass with a mild detergent, whereas on polytunnels only wipe the plastic with warm soapy water.

Algae control on steps and paths

Algae and mosses often coat paths and quite dangerously garden steps; damp shade is again a big factor. Reducing shade will cut down on the amount of algae and moss forming; by increasing the access of sunlight, you will also reduce dampness. The application of a copper sulphate solution (commonly known as bluestone) is a time honoured and effective way to combat algae on paths. When applied correctly it has a residual effect that prevents regrowth for up to several years after treatment. Mix copper sulphate or "bluestone" at a rate of 10 grammes to 10 litre of water in a plastic container. Apply on a dry day, brush in, and then leave it 3 weeks to act on the algae. After 3 weeks brush again with a stiff bristled brush and "hey presto". When applying any algae or moss control solution remember to avoid drift onto surrounding lawns, plants and vehicles. Use protection equipment when applying chemicals including a mask with a dust cartridge, safety goggles and impervious gloves with overalls. Remember, apply all chemicals according to the manufacturer’s instructions and heed those safety warnings.

Lichens in the garden

However, what happens when this algae teams up with a fungus and the two start to live in a mutually advantageous association or symbiosis? Well, in that situation you get a plant form known as a lichen. A situation where lichens grow in abundance is on old carved stone headstones in graveyards. Many of the age-old stones will display white growths often containing bright yellow or orange splashes.When I have occasion to attend a funeral in a graveyard, I am always struck by the contrast between the mourner’s dark garb and the pings and flecks of white, yellow and orange lichen growth. These growths are the lichens, growing where other plants would falter Lichens are tough devils, if there was an SAS for the plant world they would be the first to enlist.

Growing your own lichens

I feel lichens have a place within the garden, they happen to be an accurate indicator of low pollution, no harm in that. Lichen growth also adds a considerable amount of character to feature rocks, boundary walls, terracotta containers and stone garden sculptures. If you would like to encourage this type of growth, try this recipe for "lichen slurry". Mix one tablespoon of ground up lichen to one pint of natural yogurt or buttermilk and mix well. Paint or dab this slurry onto the object you wish the lichen to grow on, sit back and be prepared to wait, as fine-looking lichen growth is quite slow to form. But, worth it.

A Look at Garden Gazebos

A garden gazebo is the perfect way to accent your garden. Imagine being able to walk along the path between the koi pond and the flowers, the hedges and the willow tree, pausing to rest on a bench inside a gazebo. Its shade will comfort you, and its architecture will add that special geometric touch to your garden, striking the balance between nature and humanity. No matter what the environment of your garden, there is a garden gazebo out there just waiting to be bought.

In creating a garden gazebo, first choose your material from wood, metal, or vinyl options. Wood is the most common choice, and for good reason: it goes with any natural environment. Wood is available in pine, cedar, and redwood. Pine is the softest wood, ages to a rich yellow, and complements surrounding evergreens. Cedar is higher in overall sturdiness, is less prone to rot, and ages to a gray-brown. American redwood is the darkest, longest-lasting wood. Other woods can be used, but those are the most common.

Metal gazebos come in cast aluminum or steel and wrought iron. Go with steel and wrought iron if you want your garden gazebo to add a lovely dark and long lasting effect. These gazebos are often open-roofed, and so are great for stocking with plants, climbers, and other materials, making for a lush shade that changes with the seasons.  Vinyl comes in white or black. Just as with wood and metal gazebos, they come in a variety of shapes and styles. Get trellis walls for a cottage feeling.

For enhanced usability in harsher weather conditions, get an enclosed garden gazebo. These can be partially enclosed, with partitions and movable screens, or totally enclosed, with solid walls and tinted windows.

Whether looking to expand a large corporate garden, or just to complement a small neighborhood plot, a garden gazebo is an inviting structure for rest, meditation, or meeting up with other people to enjoy the weather.

All About Foliar Feeding African Violets

What is Foliar Feeding?

Foliar feeding the application of fertilizer to the leaves of plants rather than to the roots.  Foliar feeding can be a powerful stimulant to plant growth as leaves take up to 95% of the nutrients in the fertilizer.  Root feeding takes up much less.

Why Foliar Feed?

There are many instances when foliar feeding is very beneficial:

   To perk up wilted or damaged plants whose roots are in poor condition

   When variegated plants are too white, foliar feeding with fish emulsion or other high nitrogen fertilizer will ?green up? the leaves

   For newly rooted leaves, foliar feeding helps in the development of baby plants.  Baby plants have little or no root system, so foliar feeding provides nutrients to help build a strong root system.

   Show plants may also benefit with the extra boost foliar feeding provides

How to Foliar Feed

Select a fertilizer that is recommended for foliar feeding.  Use 1/8 to ? tsp. to a gallon of hot water.  Your spray bottle should deliver a fine, even spray.  Mist the entire plant lightly, early in the morning so the leaves can dry before cooler nighttime temperatures set in.  If any water accumulates in the center of the plants, blot dry with a tissue.

Do not foliar feed more often than 2 times per week and not during hot months when soil bacteria is more active.

The benefits of foliar feeding will be noticed in 2 to 3 week.

All About Riding Lawn Mowers

Most riding lawn mowers are machines fun to ride and extremely cool to look at. However, they are just a dream for many gardeners who can not afford one of these powerful gardening equipment. A riding mower can be a practical time saving machine for professionals as well as for beginner or amateur landscapers. If you are on of those homeowners, lucky to maintain a large yard, it can be a good idea to invest in a riding mower.

Basics of lawn mowers

We will explain first the type of mowers on the market and then which one would fit better with your current needs. Basic riding mowers are actually those featuring rear engines. They use to come with small horsepower engines, usually mounted under the operator’s seat. These mowers have reasonable power sized cutting blades and fit perfectly into small lawns with less than 1 acre.

The next level up is for medium horsepower riding lawn mowers; these mowers use to include their engines at the front; there can fit larger engines due to the space. They have a stronger and faster cutting capacity. Medium riding mowers provide better performance on hilly gardens and are the perfect complement for yards between 1 and 3 acres. Commercial riding lawn mowers are designed for really large yards, including sport fields, they can be extremely expensive for homeowners and won’t really provide their best performance in yards no bigger than 3 yards. 

Here you can find some important points to have in mind before you decide on the most suitable model that would better fit with your necessities. The final choose will depend basically on:

• The type of terrain of your mowing area as well as the size of it. And what other tasks would you like to do with your new lawnmower?. It is also very important to know whether or not the area includes slopes or hilly areas. The most flat is your mowing area the better performance you will get from the machine.

• It is always extremely important to select a comfortable seat, especially when you will be sitting for a long time. You will save a lot on back injuries and other common diseases related with sat jobs. There is no choice with that, it’s preferable that the mower’s seat be comfortable enough, don’t make the mistake that most do, it worth.

• Does the garden include trees or rocks that require permanent change of direction during the mowing process? It’s very important to find all the finishing touch to choose amongst steering wheels and tires.

• There are different bagging or recycling grass options; here you have mainly to mulching or to bagging. While mulching will cut the grass into fine clippings and then give it back to your lawn, providing nutrients to it, the second will just fill up a rear bag, being easier for the rider to empty and replace it with new ones.

• There are many attachments on the market to choose from. You probably just need a riding lawnmower including normal features. In addition, you can usually attach other features, like the ones to remove snow during winter time.

A Waste of Packaged Gold

As we drove by the plush residential homes, some recently covered with a fresh coating of paint and with the variously landscaped yards displaying their beautiful spired shrubs, flowering gardens and well watered green lawns, it could not be helped but to notice the evenly placed lawn bags filled to the brim with yard waste, just waiting to be carried away by the scheduled garbage pickup. So much labor must have gone into neatly and 

carefully packing each one of them so they wouldn't be torn open by a stiff twig or two. Each fall and spring a similar scene is reenacted by most of us who seasonally do our traditional yard cleanup. 

Having been a fairly devout organic gardener in the 1980's and traditionally would save every bit of waste clippings from our yard that would then go into a 4x4 foot by 4 feet high loosely constructed wooden bin for later processing and churning into a fine mulch, it was difficult to see virtually truckloads of "Organic Gold Plant Food" just waiting to 

be carted away to some landfill, or just possibly be used for fuel in some local utility supplier's furnace. It is beyond my understanding how this "fuel" for plants can be placed on the discard list. 

With this fresh on my mind, I recollect a book written by Ruth Stout, an avid gardener, who appropriately called her book..."The No Work Garden" which showed how she only used bales of hay in the 1950's and earlier to build her garden, spread the hay in the fall and after being well compressed through the winter, she would then simply place the vegetable seed into a small clump of soil at the proper planting time, pressed it firmly and watered to get the seed to germinate. Thereafter, her garden was never watered again. She did this year after year ...for thirty years. The soil was perfectly PH level balanced and so were all the required nutrients to sustain all the plants. Sounds like the perfect scenario, but this example is only to show what can be done with most of anyone's yard 

refuse...if properly processed.

Now, to step back to my 4-foot cube of diverse organic refuse and having filled the bin to about the 3/4 mark by eye, placing a shovelful of topsoil in between 3-4 inch layers of the material, we simply add worms, which can be purchased at a local farm store, or mail ordered through a garden supplier. Usually, they come in a few hundred in quantity and are newborns, but you can also use local worms, picked from decayed leaf. Once placed in your compost bin and watered occasionally, they will quickly multiply and digest the organic material aerating your compost in the process. This process is carried out...automatically without energy expended on anyone's part, except for the original placement of the material and bin construction. After 3 or 4 weeks, given proper rainfall and a little watering, your "pot of gold" should be ready to use. Then, simply place a handful of this composted material in a small hole 6 inches deep, for pre-started tomato plants several inches tall, where you plan to plant your vegetable garden. Pack some of this compost mixed with some topsoil around the sides and also dress around the top of each plant. Given the proper rain, sunshine and warmth, your tomatoes will give you a very early harvest, mainly because you did not discard the "hidden gold".

About basic bonsai styles

Bonsai, as a Japanese art form, is more regulated than it’s Chinese counterpart, the penjing. Bonsai attempts to achieve the ideal tree, while penjing attempts to reproduce nature. This is why perfect styling exists in bonsai if you obey the ‘rules’, while penjing leave you free to your creation. As a result these are the basic styles : 

Broom (Hokidachi or Hoki-zukuri) 

A very harmonious style, this form has branches that develop at a certain height, forming an upside broom. This styling is mainly achieved through a technique called the “V” cut. The trunk is chopped where you want the branch to start to develop and then a deep V cut is performed on the remaining trunk. This will induce buds to break near the cut. Zelkova serrata are notorious for this styling but maple and other deciduous species can easily be styled that way. 

Formal Upright (Chokkan) 

A tree styled the “chokkan” way has a straight trunk tapering graciously from bottom to top. The first and biggest branch is often situated at 1/3 of the desired height of the tree and is on the right or the left. The following branch is situated on the opposite side, while the third is in the back creating the perception depth. As we look at the branch structure from bottom to top, the branches are getting thinner, creating a pyramidal shape. 

Informal Upright (Moyogi) 

This style is very similar to the previously mentionned style as the same rules of design apply, however, the trunk is not straight but rather forms a sinuous shape while remaining tapered. This style is commonly used with conifers. 

Slanting (Shakan) 

Once again, this style is the same as the formal upright except that the trunk is leaning on one side. Branches are grown uniformly on the trunk like the formal/informal upright styles but the apex is tilted to the opposite side of the trunk giving a visual balanced effect. 

Cascade (Kengai) 

This styling requires an inclined trunk that is preferably at a 45 degree angle. The major portion of the foliage is below the pot line and sometimes goes beyond the pot itself. It often represents a tree growing on the side of cliff. A deep pot is used for this style. 

Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai) 

Similar to the Kengai style, this style also has an inclinated trunk. However, the foliage remains at the height of the pot line. In nature, we can see this style near a waterway, the foliage having grown on the side and leaning towards the water. While the cascade style uses a deeper pot, this style uses a medium depth pot. 

Windswept (Fukinagashi) 

A “windswept” tree represents a tree that has been growing in a certain shape due to natural elements . Often caused by strong wind, the trunk is always inclinated in a certain direction and all branches have grown on the same side. 

Literati (Bunjin) 

This styling is often represented in Japanese paintings. It is a tree with a tall and sinuous trunk. The foliage only grows near the summit of the tree. This styling is somewhat an exception to the rigorous rules of bonsai because it does not have specific rules. It represents what the bunjin movement is in Japan: the search for liberty. 

Group/Forest (Yose-ue) 

This styling often represents a forest or a small cluster of trees. It is supposed to be styled in a way that will clearly represent the growing habits of trees in a group. Many techinques can be used to achieve this styling and many perception techniques are used to create the illusion of a forest, or as Naka would say, “having the quality of the invisible beauty of nature”. To respect the Japanese art form, an odd number of trees is prefered for this styling. 

Raft (Ikadabuki) 

The same rules of the group planting apply to this style. However, all of the trunks emerge from one common trunk. This technique is often achieved with a branch placed verticaly in the soil. The roots form this branch and the upper part of the vertical branch develop secondary branches that will eventually become the trunks. 

Multi-trunk Style (Sokan - Sankan) 

This multi-trunk style has different possibilities. The first, which is called “Sokan”, consists of two trunks emerging from the same visible roots (nebari). The styling of the upper part of the tree must respect the same rules as the formal / informal upright styles previously described. Another variance consists of the same but with three trunks emerging from the visible roots. This is called “Sankan”. You can also have more than three trunks but to respect Japanese bonsai, it is prefered to have an odd number of trunks. 

Roots Over Rock (Ishitsuki) 

This styling has the specific charactreristics of having many visible roots growing over a rock and finding their way to the pot/soil.